Anyone can ride fast but it's the skilled rider who can ride slowly over challenging terrain with minimal impact to the ground. Using skill and common sense, not speed, will help you get there smoothly, safely and in style.
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Here are some tips to help you negotiate various obstacles and riding conditions you may encounter.
Slick trails
Many riders think that using more throttle will get them through slick or wet trails better. Usually just the opposite is true, because high wheel spin merely turns your drive tyres into 'slicks'. It's better to moderate the throttle and use the clutch to gain maximum traction with minimum wheel spin.
Stream crossings
Blasting through streams is bad for fish and other aquatic life, not to mention your engine and image. Stirring up the sediment in the stream bottom makes it harder for fish to 'breathe' and find food. Crossing streams at high speed can also cause water to rush into your airbox, drowning out the engine. Cross only at established points, and check water depth carefully. Take it slow and steady and try to identify big rocks or other obstacles before you begin crossing. If you spill, turn off the motor before it goes under to prevent it from sucking in water.
Logs
Ideally, it's best to move a fallen log off the trail. If you can't, you'll have to go over or around it. Riding around it merely makes another trail, perhaps where it shouldn't be, so to ride over it, gently pop the front wheel over. Try to carry just enough momentum to get the rear tyre over. If you don't, you'll dig a rut in front of the log, and spend a lot of time (and energy) lifting your bike across.
Switchbacks
Switchbacks are those sharp, zig-zag trails going up steep mountainsides. They are there for a reason-to keep grades low and prevent the trail from becoming a miniature river during a storm. Switchbacks can be one of the most gratifying parts of a ride because they take a lot of skill to negotiate smoothly. Skilled riders work their way through these challenging features with minimum wheel spin. When riding switchbacks, avoid roosting (accelerating hard and kicking up dust and debris) around the apex of the turn when climbing, or brake-sliding when heading down. Both of these techniques can gouge out the trail, requiring increased maintenance. If the turn is really tight (going up), skilled riders can try lofting the front wheel slightly while pivoting on the rear tyre. It's a tricky move, so don't try it in a dangerous spot unless you've got the hang of it. When going down extremely tight turns, you may find it easier (and safer) to get off the bike (to the inside of the turn), and bulldog it around. Bulldogging - Shut the engine off, put it in first gear, and use the clutch like a hand brake for the rear wheel.
Ruts and rocks
When riding over ruts, stay loose over the bike to allow for sudden changes. Look ahead, have smooth throttle control and watch for tree roots and rocks spanning the ruts. Ride over loose rocks with your backside slightly off the seat. Look ahead, go easy on the throttle and in one gear higher than you would normally use. This, combined with a soft pull on the clutch lever softens the power delivery to the ground, making for a smoother ride with less deflection. For big, stationary rocks, rise further off the seat, knees bent, feet high on the pegs and pick your line very carefully. Keep a finger on the clutch to help soften the blow when you hit a rock at the wrong angle. Take care not to let your feet hang down too far over the pegs and beware of rocks on the side that could damage your bike.
Wetlands
These areas deserve special protection. It is best not to go through them at all. Look for trails around the edges where the soil is more firm and dry. Ruts made in paddocks leave a lasting impression on everyone who sees them.
Sand
Sand presents a challenge - you must stay loose yet have a tight feel on the bike. Look way ahead, sit or stand centred over the bike, gently squeeze the tank with your knees, and avoid chopping the throttle (a quick reduction in engine RPM's) to keep the front end from diving. Also, because sand reduces momentum and power, you may find it helpful to accelerate a little sooner and brake a little later than you normally would. This will help keep you on top of the sand and your movements more fluid.
Practice this technique only in an area with no obstacles or hazards, and watch out for other riders.
Bike tuning
What does this have to do with the terrain? If your bike isn't set up properly, it can make otherwise simple obstacles more difficult to overcome. Carburettor jetting, for example, (especially with 2-stroke engines) is critical. Consider tackling a gnarly switchback with a bike that's running too rich or lean in the lower rpm range. To make up for a poorly tuned motor, you may have to rev the engine at a much higher rpm just to keep it running - endangering yourself and digging a big rut around the turn. Gearing can have the same effect: if first and second gears are too tall for tight trails, you won't have much fun. Riding an improperly prepared bike is not only tiring, it can cause a lot of damage to the terrain trying to make up for poor performance.
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